Suspended Ceiling Calculator — Tiles, Grid & Hangers

For 600x600mm tiles you need approximately 2.78 tiles per m² (before wastage). For 1200x600mm tiles you need approximately 1.39 tiles per m². Always add 10% extra for cuts at the edges of the room, as perimeter tiles are almost always cut to fit.

Main runners (also called main tees) are spaced at 1200mm centres. They run parallel to the longest wall to minimise the number of joins, and the perimeter tile edges are carried by the wall angle rather than a main tee. Standard main runners come in 3600mm or 3000mm lengths and are joined end-to-end with splice connectors. A common trade estimate is roughly 0.23 main-tee lengths (3600mm) per m² of ceiling.

Yes. A 600x600 exposed grid uses two cross-tee lengths. The 1200mm cross tees clip between the main runners at 600mm centres to form 1200x600 modules, then a 600mm short cross tee drops into the centre slot of each 1200mm cross tee to split that module into two 600x600 tiles. So you need roughly equal numbers of each (about 1.4 of each per m²). A 1200x600 tile layout only needs the 1200mm cross tees — no short tees.

The recognised trade estimating rule is one suspension wire (hanger) per 1.6 m² of ceiling area, i.e. ceiling area divided by 1.6. For a typical 4m x 5m room (20 m²) that is about 13 hangers. Geometrically, wires are fixed every 1200mm along each main runner with the first wire within roughly 600mm of each wall, and no more than 1200mm apart in any direction.

Wall angle (also called perimeter trim or wall channel) is an L-shaped metal strip fixed around the room perimeter to support the edges of the suspended ceiling grid. You need enough to cover the full perimeter of the room. It is sold in 3m lengths, so divide the perimeter by 3 and round up (allowing extra for corner cuts).

Run it once for each rectangular section and add the tile, main runner, cross tee and suspension hanger counts. Those quantities follow the ceiling area and grid layout, so entering the overall bounding dimensions instead would over-order them by the area of the missing notch. Keep the 10% tile wastage on each run: the real grid runs continuously through the join between sections, so its alignment in the second section can add a few extra cut tiles. The perimeter items (the wall angle trim and its perimeter fixing clips) are the figures you should not add up from the section runs, because the join line between sections is not a wall and summing section perimeters counts it twice. Use an exact shortcut instead: for a room shaped like a rectangle with a corner cut off, the true perimeter is exactly 2 x (overall length + overall width) of the bounding rectangle, because the notch walls line up with the wall sections they replace. Divide that by 3m and round up for the wall angle lengths, and space the perimeter clips along that same true perimeter.

Yes, but you must use moisture-resistant ceiling tiles rated for high-humidity environments. Standard mineral fibre tiles will sag and deteriorate in humid conditions. Look for tiles with a RH95 rating. The grid system itself is galvanised steel and is suitable for wet areas. Ensure adequate ventilation above the ceiling void.