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How to Install Ridge Tiles
Complete guide to fitting ridge tiles using mortar bedding or dry ridge systems, including hip irons, finials, and Building Regulations compliance.
Tools and Materials
Tools Required
- Scaffold and roof ladder
- Drill/driver with masonry and wood bits
- Tape measure and chalk line
- Spirit level
- Hacksaw (for cutting ridge battens)
- Tin snips (for cutting clips)
- PPE: harness, hard hat, non-slip boots
Materials Required
- Ridge tiles (half-round or angular)
- Dry ridge system kit (batten, unions, clips, gasket roll)
- Ridge batten brackets
- Stainless steel screws
- Hip irons (if applicable)
- Finials (if applicable)
- Mortar (if supplementary bedding required)
Before You Start
- Check BS 5534 and BS 8612 requirements — mechanical fixing is mandatory for all new ridge work
- Ensure safe access with scaffold along the ridge — never straddle a ridge without proper support
- Choose a dry ridge system compatible with your tile profile
- Check whether ventilated or non-ventilated ridge is required based on your underlay type
- Order sufficient materials including end caps, vent terminals, and finials
Step-by-Step Installation (Dry Ridge System)
- Step 1 — Fix ridge batten brackets. Screw batten support brackets to the top of each rafter at the ridge, adjusting the height so the ridge tile will sit at the correct position above the top course of tiles.
- Step 2 — Fix the ridge batten. Screw the ridge batten (typically 50 x 25 mm treated softwood) to the brackets along the ridge. Check the batten is level and straight along its entire length.
- Step 3 — Apply the gasket roll. Roll out the flexible sealing gasket along each side of the ridge, fixing it to the ridge batten and allowing the flexible skirt to drape over the top course of tiles. The gasket provides a weathertight seal while allowing ventilation.
- Step 4 — Fit the first ridge tile. Starting at the end of the ridge (against the wind direction), place the first ridge tile on the ridge batten. Clip the union bracket over the batten and screw to the batten. The clip holds the trailing edge of the tile.
- Step 5 — Fit successive ridge tiles. Place the next ridge tile overlapping the first by the manufacturer's specification (typically 75-100 mm). Fit another union bracket at the trailing edge. Continue along the ridge.
- Step 6 — Fit end caps. At each end of the ridge, fit a purpose-made end cap. This closes the end of the ridge and provides a neat finish. Seal with the gasket and screw or clip into place.
- Step 7 — Fit ridge vent terminals (if required). If additional ventilation is needed (for non-breathable underlay), fit ridge vent terminals at the required spacing. These replace standard ridge tiles at specific intervals.
Common Mistakes
- Using mortar only without mechanical fixing — does not comply with current Building Regulations
- Mixing components from different dry ridge system manufacturers — they are not interchangeable
- Not checking the ridge tile angle matches the roof pitch — causes gaps or lifting
- Starting from the wrong end — always start against the prevailing wind direction
- Forgetting ridge ventilation with non-breathable felt — causes condensation in the roof space
Cost Estimate (2026)
| Item | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Concrete ridge tiles (each) | £3-8 |
| Clay ridge tiles (each) | £8-20 |
| Dry ridge system kit (6 m) | £60-120 |
| Hip irons (each) | £3-6 |
| Total (6 m ridge, dry system, DIY) | £120-300 |
Related Calculators
Use the Ridge Tile Calculator for quantities, or the Dry Ridge Calculator for complete system components.
Next up: related pages
Frequently Asked Questions
Since January 2015, BS 5534 requires all ridge and hip tiles to be mechanically fixed — mortar-only bedding no longer complies with Building Regulations for new work. Dry ridge systems use plastic unions, stainless steel clips, and a ridge batten to provide a secure, ventilated, maintenance-free solution. Mortar may still be used as supplementary bedding under a mechanical fixing system.
A dry ridge system consists of a ridge batten fixed along the apex, ridge tile union brackets that clip over the batten, and a flexible roll gasket that seals against the roof tiles. The system is self-ventilating, eliminating the need for separate ridge ventilation. Brands include Hammerfix, Manthorpe, and Klober. Each system has specific components — do not mix brands.
A hip iron is a galvanised or stainless steel bracket that holds the bottom hip tile in place. It is screwed to the hip rafter through the fascia board. A finial sits at the top of the hip or at roof junctions for decoration. Finials are bedded on mortar (with mechanical fixing) or clip onto a dry hip system bracket.
Standard half-round ridge tiles are 450 mm long and come in angles to suit different roof pitches: universal (adjustable), or specific angles (90°, 105°, 120°). For dry ridge systems, the ridge tile must match the system manufacturer's specification. Measure the roof pitch and check the ridge tile angle range before ordering.
If using non-breathable roofing felt, the ridge must provide ventilation (equivalent to a continuous 5 mm gap). Many dry ridge systems incorporate ventilation as standard. If using breathable membrane, ridge ventilation is not usually required but check the membrane manufacturer's requirements. Ventilated ridge rolls and ridge terminals are available.
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Last updated: April 2026
Verified against UK standards · estimates only, confirm with your supplier.