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How to Lay Block Paving
Complete guide to laying block paving for driveways and patios, including excavation, sub-base, edge restraint, laying patterns, and kiln-dried sand.
Tools and Materials
Tools Required
- Mini digger or spade (hire digger for large areas: £150-200/day)
- Whacker plate compactor (hire: £40-60/day)
- Block splitter or angle grinder with diamond blade
- Spirit level and long straight edge
- Screeding rails (25 mm or 32 mm pipe)
- Rubber mallet
- String line and pegs
- PPE: ear defenders, safety glasses, dust mask, gloves
Materials Required
- Block pavers (add 5-10% for cuts/waste)
- Type 1 MOT sub-base
- Sharp sand (for screeding layer)
- Kiln-dried jointing sand
- Concrete edging kerbs
- Concrete for edging haunch
- Geotextile membrane (optional)
Before You Start
- Check for underground services — use a CAT scanner and check service plans
- Plan falls for drainage: minimum 1:60 away from buildings
- Consider permeable paving if the area exceeds 5 m² at the front of the property
- Order blocks from the same batch to ensure colour consistency
- Set datum levels with pegs and string before excavating
Step-by-Step Installation
- Step 1 — Excavate. Dig to the required depth ensuring the correct falls. Remove all organic matter and soft spots. Fill any soft areas with Type 1 and compact.
- Step 2 — Lay geotextile membrane (optional). On soft or clay ground, lay geotextile membrane to prevent sub-base migration into the subsoil.
- Step 3 — Spread and compact sub-base. Add Type 1 MOT in layers of no more than 75 mm, compacting each layer thoroughly with a whacker plate. Build up to the required depth (150 mm patio, 200 mm+ driveway). Check levels frequently.
- Step 4 — Install edge restraints. Bed concrete edging kerbs on a C20 concrete haunch. Set to the finished paving level minus the block thickness. Allow the concrete to set for 24 hours before laying pavers.
- Step 5 — Screed the sand bed. Lay screeding rails on the compacted sub-base and spread sharp sand between them. Draw a straight edge across the rails to create a smooth, even bed at the correct depth (30-40 mm). Remove the rails and fill the voids.
- Step 6 — Lay the blocks. Start from a 90° corner or fixed edge. Work forwards, kneeling on the laid pavers (never on the sand bed). Maintain 2-3 mm gaps between blocks. Check alignment every few rows with a string line.
- Step 7 — Cut edge blocks. Mark and cut edge blocks with a block splitter or angle grinder. Wear ear defenders, safety glasses, and a dust mask when cutting. Aim for cuts no smaller than one-third of a full block.
- Step 8 — Vibrate and joint. Spread kiln-dried sand over the surface and vibrate with a plate compactor fitted with a rubber mat (to prevent scuffing). This drives the sand into the joints and settles the blocks. Top up the sand and repeat 2-3 times.
Common Mistakes
- Inadequate sub-base compaction — the most common cause of sinking and unevenness
- No edge restraints — paving will spread apart within months
- Using building sand instead of kiln-dried for joints — it holds moisture and encourages weed growth
- Laying blocks too tight together — blocks expand in heat and will crack if there is no joint gap
- Insufficient falls — leads to puddles and standing water
- Mixing blocks from different pallets — shuffle blocks from 3-4 packs to blend colour variation
Cost Estimate (2026)
| Item | Typical Cost |
|---|---|
| Block pavers (standard) | £15-35 per m² |
| Type 1 MOT sub-base | £55-80 per bulk bag |
| Sharp sand | £50-70 per bulk bag |
| Edging kerbs | £3-6 per metre |
| Whacker plate hire | £40-60 per day |
| Total (30 m² driveway, DIY) | £1,200-2,500 |
Related Calculators
Use the Block Paving Calculator for paver quantities, and the Type 1 Sub-Base Calculator for sub-base volumes.
Next up: related pages
Frequently Asked Questions
For a patio or path, excavate 200-250 mm below finished level. For a driveway, excavate 300-350 mm. This allows for 150-200 mm of Type 1 sub-base (more for driveways), 30-40 mm of sharp sand, and the block thickness (typically 50 mm for patios, 60-80 mm for driveways).
Herringbone (45° or 90°) is the strongest pattern for driveways because it interlocks and resists the lateral forces from vehicle turning and braking. Stretcher bond is suitable for patios and paths but not recommended for vehicular areas as it can shift under tyre loads.
Yes, always. Without edge restraints, the paving will spread and the joints will open. Use concrete edging kerbs bedded on a concrete haunch, or a proprietary metal edge restraint. Edge restraints must be installed before laying the paving blocks.
If your front garden driveway exceeds 5 m² and uses non-permeable paving, you will need planning permission under permitted development rules (since 2008). Using permeable block paving, or draining to a lawn or border, avoids the need for planning permission. Always check with your local authority.
Use kiln-dried jointing sand, not building sand. Brush it into the joints after laying and compact with a plate compactor. You will need approximately 3-5 kg per m². Repeat the process 2-3 times over the first few weeks as the sand settles. Polymeric jointing sand is a premium alternative that resists weed growth.
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Last updated: April 2026
Verified against UK standards · estimates only, confirm with your supplier.